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Monument Valley and Horseshoe Bend

The road toward Monument Valley

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Sep 20, 2010 6:00:06 AM

A Long Ride In America

Here´s an excerpt from the journal of our 2009 trip across nearly 8,000 miles of the USA:

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VOX is closing - so I am hoping to transfer my Blog to Typepad

Sep 20, 2010 5:49:08 AM

Monument Valley and Horseshoe Bend

Saturday morning we had an early breakfast whilst watching the humming birds

Bluff Hummingbirds

then loaded up and set off towards Kanab in southern Utah.

This is a beautifully scenic area and you could spend days here taking photos.

On The Way To Monument Valley

I just love this ride..

The bike near a butte

Just outside Monument Valley

Approaching Monument Valley

The road toward Monument Valley

Monument 5

The World Famous View

Monument Butte

The View Hotel, Monument Valley

Monument Utah

Now we were headed north to Kanab in Utah. The route took us back into Arizona and through the town of Kayenta.

Horse Riders

We have a friend here, Ron Watch

Kayenta - Ron

He has a coffee shop called Shepherd's Eyes serving really a variety excellent brews. He made us feel very welcome, as always and gave me a big hug. After a catch up on news, he suggested I go and talk to some of the artists in the circular (circles are very important to the Navajo) building that serves to hold meetings and art displays.

Kayenta Seal

These Navajo artists are world renowned. One man showed me the glossy coffee table book where some of his jewelry was featured.

Kayenta jewelry

One young lady, Xiana told me how much she wanted to travel to Europe. I loved her quirky self-portrait

Kayenta Art

I had a really interesting - if unexpected chat with a lovely man called Ken. He asked if I ever met the Queen of England. I have seen her in the flesh. When living in Falmouth, I worked at Pendennis Castle as a custodian with English Heritage and was there when the Queen paid a visit. I had to admit though, that I merely directed traffic into the car park (including the Secret Service guys). I had to tell Ken that Her Majesty didn't invite me to tea. I did say that she was much prettier in real life - much more cheerful and very petite.

Ken's wife, also a Navajo artist, was called Elizabeth and I wondered was this why he is interested in Queen Elizabeth. They hope to visit the UK this year and asked where would be nice places to see. I suggested St Ives in Cornwall, Norfolk, The Lake District, Snowdonia and bonnie Scotland. I did say that these places are lovely - but small compared to places in the USA.

Then we somehow got onto boats and sailing. He asked why it isn't possible to sail a boat into the wind. He had built himself a small sailboat and couldn't figure out why he couldn't go into the wind - and lost his mast trying.

It was a thoroughly interesting morning. But time to move on.

The road to Page, Az

Towering Rock Formations

Page, Arizona

Next place was Page, still in Arizona. I wanted to revisit Horseshoe Bend to take some photos with my new 10 - 20mm wide angle lens.

Riding through Page - a busy tourist area - was no fun as the road was being re-surfaced and an overloaded bike is not a happy being expected to behave like a dirt bike. We finally got through, stopped for bottled water and then headed the 5 miles south to the car park of the bend.

Dirt Road

I removed my riding jacket and armour, but had to keep my thick riding trousers and leg armour on. Around me, most people were wearing the minimum of clothing! Jan said, 'you better take as many photos as you can cos I'm not riding here again' (like the road resurfacing will go on eternally - guess it could, actually)

So off I set. The board tells you it is three quarters of a mile to the rim of the bend in the Colorado.

Horseshoe 5

The slope on the photo above doesn't look much - but believe me, at this altitude, it takes a lot of puff! There was a couple, older than me, walking alongside. The woman stopped, bent over and said, 'Jeez, I hope this is the worst of it!' It isn't. Once you get to the top, it is a long slope downhill and you are faced with the fact that you have to come back - uphill. This is in sand that, for each 2 steps you take forward, you take one step back!

Looking Down At The Carpark

Great sandstone formations

The overlook is 4,200 feet above sea level; the Colorado River is 3,200 feet above sea level. The drop, looking down is therefore, 1,000 feet. I perched over the edge in various locations. Passing a woman from New Zealand, she commented that I was making here fearful - she wasn't keen on heights and felt dizzy and concerned watching me lean over.

I took a lot of photos and then began the dreaded hike back up the sand. I had a half litre of water and took a sip once I reached 'that point ahead' - that point being about 3 yards. My steps got smaller and smaller becoming tippy toes. About two thirds of the way I began to feel dizzy. At one point I thought, 'I can't do this' But I did (obviously) and finally made it to the top of the slope leading down to the car park. Two young French girls alongside me saw Jan stood by the bike and commented that he was the sensible one, staying behind.

At the bike, I finished the water and then began to feel sick. On with the armour and jacket, My helmet felt as though it weighed a ton and climbing on the bike took the last of my energy. Jan asked, 'Will you be OK?' I said to just get going so I could have some wind on my face. I kept the visor up both for the warm breeze blowing through and also, I thought that if my diaphragm revolted and ejected my stomach contents, I wouldn't have a helmet full of puke!

The 90 mile ride to Kanab passed with no photography interest from me whatsoever. At the motel, one of our favourites (this is the third time here at the Sun n Sand Motel , Wayne, the manager gave me a plate of nice cool watermelon. That helped a lot. Unloaded, I collapsed on the bed for an hour. I think it was a mixture of altitude sickness, heat stroke!

This being Utah and almost totally Mormon, there was to be a firework display in the community park that evening. No fireworks allowed on Sunday. Of course, it would be July 4th - Independence Day.

News

I did summon up the energy to walk to the park and took lots of photos, but didn't capture anything special. I was glad to get to bed that day. It had been a busy, hot, interesting 290 mile ride. Jan was extremely tired too; in fact his hands were almost frozen into the grip of the bike position. It had been quite windy and he had had a hard time keeping the bike upright. The wind almost blew us into the centre lane at one point.

We will be here for at least four days; no hardship, we love it here.

I've got a great surprise for tomorrow - a photography tour of Antelope Canyon - a 100 mile each way ride back to Arizona. In a party of 10 with Chief Tsosie. A big jeep and lots of bumpy bumps on the way there. So fingers crossed XX this will take a lot of concentration, a tripod and remote. Oh, and no rain.... these slot canyons can flood very quickly if there is rain, so I'm hoping for the great weather to continue.

So now I'm off to study this in the hope of learning how to photograph the beams of light in a dark area.

Jul 5, 2010 4:50:12 PM

Colorado To Utah

CaliColorado

For the first time ever - in 30,000 miles of travel in the USA - we met another Guzzi rider. We were filling up in Durango, Colorado when I looked over - and looked again. I ran over saying, 'Oh, oh, it's a Guzzi'

This is the Califronia model - lovely bike but too big and heavy for Jan's busted leg.

CowboyBootsBack

Hey cowboy - show me your boots

CowboyBoots

Mmm. Nice.

But hey, what happened to your face?

Cowboy Kicked by Horse

'Well, I was breakin in a horse, got thrown and his hoof just clipped me'

'Bet you saw stars!'

'Sure did, ma'am'

Recapture Lodge, Bluff, Utah

After a beautiful ride through storm clouds and getting caught in the odd downpour (we finally had to put our raingear on) we arrive at the Recapture Lodge in Bluff, Utah. Great motel, very rustic and with a lovely breakfast included. The dining room is like the office of a geologist/historian. Maps, photos, books, guides - and two pianos.

We unloaded, then went for a meal across the road. What a revelation. Never have we had such a meal in the USA. The chef was rather eccentric (so we were told) and an artist - with food as well as paintings and sculpture.

All the food was grown or sourced locally, all organic and cooked to perfection. They also served beers brewed in Utah. So Jan was a happy chappy!

Utah Beer

Stuffed to the gills, I decided to walk it off and set off along a dirt track climbing up to the rocky backdrop to Bluff. It is strange, being from Manchester, UK, to suddenly find yourself wandering amongst desert scrub and keeping an eye out for rattle snakes!

At the top, I came across a grave with an American flag as a marker. Further along was another, then a few more. I finally realised I was in a graveyard, Many of the graves were large humps covered with stones - like you see in cowboy films - I guess the ground is hard to dig. But there was a more formal, fenced in section a little further along.

Bluff Cemetery

Back down at the motel, I decided to keep walking, so followed the path at the rear of the motel. It was a lovely walk with the setting sun lighting up the rocks on the other side of the town.

Bluff Evening Walk

Jul 5, 2010 4:17:09 PM

This was a fast, exciting, wet-at-times ride!

Here's a small (jerky) video showing some of the great ride we had from Colorado to Utah -

Rain Ride

Jul 5, 2010 3:49:43 PM

New Mexico To Colorado

Hi from Pagosa Springs, Colorado.
There's a lot to be filled in - maybe in a couple of days we will stop for a 4 or 5 day rest (also, it is almost July 4th and almost everything will be closed)

So for now, some photos from the last couple of days. For my photog friends, many of these were taken on the road with a little point and shoot, so no critique, thank you muchly :) I have used the Nikon a lot - but don't have Adobe Camera Raw on the netbook, so it is a hassle editing them and we are both pretty tired having reached.....

30,000-miles

Which means we have traveled (on this trip) 2,759 miles (that doesn't include the ride from Toronto to Ohio, which will bring this year's mileage to over 3,000. The bike only had 10 miles on when it was delivered to Manchester airport, so with tonight's mileage of 30,081 - we have ridden the bike 30,071 miles in the USA and Canada. Poor little workhorse!

We spent 2 days in Clinton, Oklahoma.

R66Museum

The motel was right opposite the R66 museum

Mugs

Yesterday, Wednesday, we rode back into the Texas panhandle and then stopped for the night in Clayton, just across the border in New Mexico.

A bug flew up my sleeve yesterday and got trapped under the velcro of my armour. I hurt like hell, I yelled into Jan's ear to pull over.

Then, that evening, when Jan took his riding gear off, he found a dead bug in his armour. It had actually formed an impression on his calf!

Jan's Dessicated, Flattened Bug

Thursday 1st July

Santa-Fe-Trail

Mountains

Palisade

We followed 86 miles of the Santa Fe Trail in north west New Mexico; Clayton to Springer to Cimarron and the through Taos.

Then we crossed the vertiginous bridge across the Rio Grande

Rio-Grande

From there it was 12 miles to Angel Fire - a memorial to Vietnam veterans, POW's and MIA (missing in action). It was very moving

The Entrance To The Monument

Angel Fire Monument

There were some beautiful sculptures inside

Prisoner

Never Forget

Soldier

There was an actual, battle-scarred Huey there too. Couldn't help but imagine what this helicopter had seen and done

Huey

From here on, the ride was one of pure joy; empty roads climbing up into Carson National Forest - the sky was promising some rain - and we did have a couple of showers, but nothing to spoil the thrill of riding up and down twisting roads through some great scenery

Carson National Forest

Yes, we wore rain gear....

Me

We had thought of camping up here, but on second thoughts...

Rain-Behind

Cloud

So we continued north where the skies were clearer and arrived in Pagosa Springs, Colorado by 7pm

Chimney Rock, Colorado

OK friends. There are lots more photos but, tonight, I am cream crackered and wind burned (plus a touch of indigestion from a particularly hot Thai curry). Jan is already well into the land of nod . We are making an early start for Bluff in Utah tomorrow, so, fingers crossed we find a motel with wi-fi. TTFN

The Route Tomorrow

Colorado To Utah

Jul 2, 2010 6:02:16 AM

Oklahoma To New Mexico

Tomorrow we'll be back on the road. Laundry is done, photos removed from cards, bags re-arranged and, to celebrate, a delicious meal in an Italian restaurant - salmon in lemon sauce with penne. Yum.

Once we have burped and digested a bit, we'll give the bike a good clean using- bought today - Mean Green super cleaner. There's tar and oil splatter around the rear tyre. Then I think the Guzzi deserves a good polish.

I re-visited the Route 66 museum, just across the road here in Clinton, OK. Hopefully, I got a few decent photos.

I also bought some knickers from Dollar General. Not thinking about size differences between the UK and the US, I just picked up a pack of size 12. Back in the motel, I opened the pack and unrolled an incredibly large pair of knickers - enough to make a storm sail!

Back to the store and, sod's law, it was a man on the till. I explained the size thing and he looked dubious - a sort of, 'a 12 is a 12 is a 12' sort of look. So I flicked one of the 3 pairs open and watched his face. 'Oh mah Lord, they is BIG, ma'am' Go ahead, change them. So then I bought a size 8. But, guess what - they are still huge!

Outside the store was an open-backed truck filled with big watermelons. I asked if I could take a photo and the man, sitting in a chair under an umbrella attached to his truck (96 deg F) said, 'sure, go ahead'. In his lap he had a half watermelon that he was cutting into neat cubes with a precision born of years of doing it.
'You wanna piece?'
'Wow, thanks, looks lovely and fresh, Do you grow these yourself?'
'No ma'am, got these from Texas as they aint ripe here yet. Dya have these things in England?
'Yes, but not so big'
'Big? These are babies, ma'am. They only weigh 30-40 pounds. When the season is in full swing, I'll be sellin 60-70 pounders'

Here's the planned route for the next 2 days. I hope the weather will be good enbough to camp along the way - in the Black Kettle National Grasslands, still in Oklahoma, or in the Sangre de Cristo mountains, New Mexico.

Oklahoma To Colorado

Jun 30, 2010 12:26:32 AM

Photo Slideshow

Thanks to TravelPod, I can now show you photos using a slideshow.
There's much to catch up on here - but a 2 night stay in Clinton, Oklahoma, means I might catch up with myself.
Here's a cheat - a post on Photo4Me forum - just to put you in the picture for the last couple of days.

This morning:

Hi all. Well. still in Texas - Wichita Falls. Yesterday the ride was good; mostly fast and empty roads, lots of small, sleepy Texan towns with some great photogenic abandoned buildings and trucks. The town of Paris, Texas was bigger than we thought and we couldn't find the Eiffel, but a kind photographer who was also taking photos of a great old cinema put the co-ordinates in his GPS and led us to it. It is only about 20 foot high and has a big cowboy hat on top.

We later went through a town called Muenster. Very Germanic and interesting. Doc's Bar and Grill was the area hospital from the 1800's to 1959 and one of the waitresses gave me a tour of the upstairs (camera in hand) where they still had the birthing chair with the stirrups! There was a notice board with photos of folk born in the hospital - both as babies and as children and adults.

As we approached Wichita Falls, storm clouds were gathering ahead and the temp was 99.9 F / 38 C - definite storm stuff, so we pulled into a gas station to put waterproofs on. Got chatting to a couple on a Harley. They were local (Native Indians, actually, so that's real local :) ). They warned us not to head into the main part of town as there is a big drug problem. They kindly offered to guide us to a motel that was in a safe area (next to the police station) and also right next to the Falls. By now it was piddling down and flashes of lightning circled us. But these good folk insisted on riding ahead (it turned out to be about 10 miles out of their way) to the motel, despite the fact they would get soaked as they were riding in t-shirts. Great place, Econo Lodge. $40 inc breakfast.

They sheltered awhile under the entrance cover and we chatted. They pointed out city buildings in the distance and also showed us the path to walk to the Falls and they told us it was one of the places the Indians crossed when being evicted from their lands on the long, long walk, the route is known as the Trail Of Tears.

Only downside with the motel was, late in the evening, Jan noticed a bug on the wall. Then another; he counted 22 that he killed. They weren't roaches or bed bugs or ants. I've got a macro photo of one so I'll try to find out what it is. They were harmless, but we still slept with a light on and Jan kept bug-watch all night. so I suspect today will be a short ride! Maybe further along the road to a motel out of town and a rest day - washing and all that. The Sangre De Cristo mountains was a bit ambitious really. Those 600 mile rides are more achievable out in Nevada where roads are long and empty and the weather is reliable-ish. The new route takes us through the The Black Kettle National Grasslands which protect s 31,300 acres of grasslands and small lakes. The land has a rich Native American and Great Depression history.

Just shows, some things happen for the best – I always wanted to see the grasslands and the weather led us here. We'll still be heading through the Sangre de Cristo mountains – just a different route to them.

Later:

On account of the weather, we made a change of plan. The forecast showed 2 more big depressions to the east and to the west of us, so we decided to head north. Now in Clinton, Oklahoma – right opposite the R66 museum. Motel a bit run down but has fridge, micro, wifi, breakfast. Only $35, so staying 2 nights to rest and wait out the weather. Also need to do some laundry.

Here are a few photos for the moment. Lots more photos to edit then add, but for now...